***Pardon the typos! Writing this in a bit of a flurry and with limited internet access***
Jul 8
Jul 8
I left Tillamook bound for Beverly State Beach. The weather
was great and fog had started to lift. The ride was gorgeous! Roads were
relatively smooth and traffic wasn’t terrible….until I accidently missed the
“Oregon Coastal Bike Route” sign and continued on the portion of the 101 sans
shoulder and with high logging traffic. The scenery following Oretown turned
from lovely bucolic to coastal views that were unlike anything I’d seen! Oregon
is so unique and scenic. I ate lunch in Neskowin with an elderly couple,
rehydrated in Lincoln City, and then plowed forward to the beach. I was
STARVING when I arrived and ate all of the scraps of food I had in my bag and
set up camp. I was exhausted, but decided to take a stroll to the beach, and
HOLY COW!
This is what I saw:
Oregon! |
Absolutely incredible.
At camp, I met a variety of people all delightfully quirky and great conversationalists:
*Jonathon, older guy who had biked the coast several times and knows everything about every pullout and campsite
*A father-and-two-son trio from Texas wearing matching wool
jerseys and wind pants (I would die of heat)
*A couple who was hiking the coast (they later clarified
they were hitchhiking)
*A woman from Seattle who works with Anika’s friend Jill
with two folks from Fort Collins
*Jo biking from ARGENTINA to SEATTLE. Insane not only
because of the distance but also because one hits a headwind the entire time.
Some of the coastal views! |
Jul 9
The next day, I bid the beach adieu, allowed myself to sleep
in a bit, and was bound for Jessie Honeymann State Park as my first option
(60mi), but wanted to see if I could go further. The ride was again beautiful. I left around
9:30am and decided I wanted to stop in Waldport, noticing they had a bike
co-op. My disc brakes had been rubbing and making a funny noise. The bike was
handling fine, but just wanted to be sure. MISTAKE!
The bike mechanic was incredibly nice and well-meaning,
however, the entire stop took over 2 hours and I wasn’t able to get going until
2pm. After noon, the winds in Oregon pick up to crazy levels. I made the
mistake of not eating during the break (didn’t realize it was going to be so
long), so stopped and grabbed some calories in the next town and hustled.
Unfortunately, in the process of identifying the problem, the mechanic changed
a few things, and I discovered this as soon as I left. Determined to make
progress, I kind of ignored it and pushed forward. My brakes were too touchy
for my liking and my shifting, which I would find out on a significant and
intense climb up to Seal Rock. Basically, my derailleur had been tweaked and my
chain slipped whenever I was in a certain gear, causing me to lurch and lose
purchase. I tried to fix it on a pullout at Seal Rock—I’m telling you, the wind
must have been whipping easily at 35-40mph! The shoulder was essentially
nonexistent, and with my lurching, I was rather tense. I finished the ride, though, and found a VEGAN
RESTAURANT in Freeport!! I felt like celebrating. I cruised into camp, which
was about 3 miles away from the outskirts of town.
There were a few parties set up at camp and there was the
usual banter between parties talking route, destinations, significant things of
note, etc. At camp, a few people gave me advice on my derailleur issue, which
seems to have been fixed, based on today’s ride.
Just as it was dark, another solo rider blonde gal came in!
Soulmate! We connected instantly, and I’m hopeful we can run into each other
again.
Jul 10: This morning, I woke up and explored the sand
dunes just outside of camp. They were…. sandy! Cool, but not entirely exciting.
Today, I didn’t reeeeaaaally have a destination in mind! I want to bed thinking
about Sunset Beach State Park (~50 mi), but thought I could push further…. But
also thought about all the work I’ve been neglecting (hello, online class).
Ultimately, I didn't want to stress and as I went to bed told myself I’d figure
it out as the day went on. I didn’t have a ton of breakfast food and was
planning on stopping in the next town (Reedsport) for caffeine and food.
In Reedsport, I was doodling around looking at maps on my
iPhone somewhat obsessively and weighing my options, I saw Crater Lake. My eyes
perked up and I knew what the day was to hold. I biked another 20 miles to Coos
Bay and headed to Enterprise. There was absolutely no WAY I could pass up the
chance to go to Crater Lake. It’s one of the most classic and scenic rides in
the US (the world, perhaps)? So, off I went, rental keys in hand bound for
Roseburg for the night. I got a hotel for the night, which feels surprisingly
nice: shower, bed, and a break from the traffic.
Also, to be honest, the traffic on the road has started to
get to me. There’s the frightening wind currents generated by semis who also
like to hug the shoulder line quite close; there’s the logging trucks with bark
flying off unpredictably; there’s the noisy bros and in their respective trucks
and motorcycles revving as loud as they can when they drive by; and then… my
two least favorite traffic varieties: the cat calls shouted out at 60mph
(terrifying) or the HONK-HONK-HONK of people thinking their being supportive
(or clever) that scare the CRAP out of me and make me almost topple over each
time. Le sigh. Anyway, the escape to Crater will be great, and the respite in
this bed is also admittedly quite nice (though overpriced). I’m wondering what
the weekend coastal traffic will be like… hope it won’t be terrible J
In any event, I can’t wait to see Crater Lake!
I also cannot express enough how grateful I am for the
support everyone has given me on this ride! I’ve met some INCREDIBLY kind and
amazing people (also a fair share of rude people, but no need to mention beyond
that). THANK YOU for all the positive vibes, words of encouragement, and
donations to the Challenged Athletes Foundation. All of this really means so
much to me- more than I can express.
Sara
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